Weapon Construction

So, you want to build a weapon suitable for use on our stage, eh? The guidelines are fairly simple. The weapon must be made of foam, and covered either with latex or a soft flexible fabric. Your weapon may have a solid core, but the core must be completely surrounded by foam (including the pommel). The following is an illustrated example of how I have built some of the weapons you will see us use in TDK. The technique is similar in many ways to the construction of a typical "boffer" weapon, but I consider our weapons to be even safer.

All of my weapons are made with strong, flexible foam which regains its original shape after you have squeezed it. Think Nerf. Think couch cushions. Think "tempur-pedic" pillows. Do not use Styrofoam (the brittle white stuff that usually comes with your new tv or vcr). You can buy good foam at your local craft store, or in the fabric section at Wal-mart, but I try not to buy new foam as it can be a little pricey. The core is made with PVC pipe and surrounded with foam pipe insulation both of which can be found at the local hardware store). Then the entire weapon is coated with liquid latex, and painted with a mixture of latex-based paint (or tint) and more latex. I'll describe more painting issues later. Also, if I think a particular weapon will meet with unusual stress in a particular area, I will put a layer of cheesecloth between the layers of latex for extra strength, and to prevent ripping. What follows is a step by step description of building an axe, including materials, costs, and some other little tricks.

Just a warning: while building a weapon can be relatively inexpensive, it can also be time consuming. Also, working with latex is not like working with paint. The fumes don't smell like roses, and good ventilation is necessary. I suggest working in a garage, a shop, or outdoors on a balcony or patio whenever you are working with liquid latex.

BUILDING A BATTLE AXE

CHOOSE YOUR FOAM:

The first step is to select an appropriate piece of foam. The piece I chose came from my brother's computer store. It was a large dense slab of foam about an inch and a half thick. I drew the pattern of the axe head in 2-dimensional form first. Then I moved on to cutting. I find the best tool for cutting is an electric meat slicer. It cuts the foam smoothly, and with a steady hand it makes a fairly straight cut. The best tool would probably be a bandsaw, but not everyone has access to one of those. After the 2D pattern was cut out, I drew more lines, depicting the angle of the blades edge. You can see the magic marker lines in the photograph. Let me explain in more detail. After my first series of cuts (which gives me the 2 dimensional shape of the axe head) I am left with a weapon with NO BLADE EDGE. Now we have to figure out a way to produce a realistic looking edge for the weapon.

FIRST: draw a line with a sharpee or other magic marker right down the middle of the edge of the foam.that is, where the sharpest point of the weapon would be. We will call this our edge line.

THEN: draw lines along the face of the blade following the curve of the blade. The lines should be about an inch from the 90 degree edge of the foam. We'll call these lines our face lines. Once these lines have been drawn, all you have to do is very carefully use your cutter to produce the edge by making sure that the blade of the slicer stays in contact with both the edge line, and the face line.

ON SECOND THOUGHT:

Upon finishing the carving of the axe head, I decided that it looked a little too much like the "bat symbol", so I simply recarved the middle portion. Notice the difference between the picture above and the one at the top of the page. Also, the new design allowed for more stable, and more attractive positioning of the axe handle.

THE HANDLE:

Before doing anything else, you need to decide how long to make your handle. The PVC core should extend from the center of the axe head to just a few inches short of the pommel. Look at the drawing below. The blue line shows how far the PVC extends inside the foam. The other colors show the different kinds of foam I used on the project. The black lines show the most dense foam (necessary for the axe head since it will take the most abuse), the yellow lines show where I used scrap foam (various pieces of whatever I could find that happened to be the right size or shape), and the red lines represent the foam pipe insulation that surrounds the PVC core. Notice that at the bottom of the axe handle, the foam used for the spiked pommel actually slips over the pipe insulation. Also note that the PVC does NOT extend to the end of the weapon on EITHER end. This is for safety.

Once you have determined how long to make your PVC core, simply cut it to size (PVC is relatively easy to cut with just about any kind of saw). Now it is time to make the most difficult cut of all. You need to make an incision from the center of the bottom of the axe head up to the center of the axe (red line). Then make diagonal groove cuts to make allowance for the thickness of the PVC (yellow lines). Notice the lines in the photograph, and how the PVC rests into the grooves. These cuts, especially the groove cuts, need to be made slowly and carefully. Don't rush these cuts and risk ruining the work you have put in thus far.

Next, with the PVC slid all the way into the center of the axe head, determine how long of a piece of pipe insulation you will need for your axe handle. Remember to let the foam overhang the end of the PVC a couple inches for safety. When you have your length determined, cut it with the meat slicer or other blade. If you have an angle where the handle foam meets the head foam, you will need to make the necessary cut so that the two pieces fit together. Notice the detailing in the photograph. Of course, you want to keep imperfections to a minimum, but don't sweat the small gaps or blemishes. The first coating of latex should fill in any unsightly gaps. Now it is time to work on the pommel.

THE POMMEL:

The pommel can be as simple as you want it to be, but I chose to put some killer spikes on mine. Also, I wanted the pommel to appear to have a bit of mass to it, so I found a piece of foam that luckily slipped right over the pipe insulation. I found this foam on a construction site being thrown away by the home owner. He had just gotten some new stainless steel faucets, and they were packaged in some peculiar looking foam (see photo). So I took the cylindrical looking piece of foam, and used it for the bulk of the pommel. Next, I used some of the scrap foam to make one large spike. Then I carved smaller spikes out of foam make-up wedges. Don't use the expensive Ben Nye type.just get some dollar store makeup sponges. I like their size because you can outline a quarter on the bottom, and then draw vertical lines to help guide your cuts as you carve the spike. A sharp pair of scissors works best for this.

Assembly:

So once you have all of the pieces cut out, use a sharpee to mark where each spike will be positioned. Make sure to be accurate, because once you glue the foam together there is no going back. Speaking of gluing.I prefer to use a hot glue gun when assembling these weapons, but you could use just about anything. The glue only has to be strong enough to hold the foam together until after the first coat of latex is dry. I prefer to use hot glue because it is dries quickly, and the heat of the glue somewhat melts the foam together, which is useful when you are putting on that first layer of latex, because harsh brush strokes can dislodge delicate foam parts. However, be careful when you are using the hot glue gun, because the metal tip of the glue gun is hot enough to melt right through your foam. Before you glue, assemble your weapon and make sure everything is the way you want it. (HELPFUL TIP: It always helps to do a dry assembly with your parts first because you can save yourself from making a huge mistake. For example, when I put my pieces together and laid the weapon on the ground with the face of the axe laying flat, I noticed that one of the pommel spikes was resting on the ground and was being smushed under the pressure. The solution was to rotate the entire pommel about 25 degrees so that the weapon rested between two spikes when laid flat. I then used my sharpee to make marks so that I could properly align the pieces again when I was ready to glue.)

GLUING:

When gluing, I recommend starting with the head of the axe first. Glue the PVC securely to the inside of the axe head, and then seal the grooves that you cut out. Be careful when lining up visible seams together, because the glue will dry quickly.sometimes almost to the touch. When that is done, slide the pipe insulation on next. ALWAYS glue the pipe insulation to the PVC, or your handle will twist against your will. Foam pipe insulation has a seam you can split down the middle. After you have it where you want it, I suggest splitting that seam, and using the thumb and index finger of one hand to spread the foam apart, while using your other hand to pour hot glue carefully between the PVC shaft and the foam. Then, simply pinch the seam back together, using a tiny drop of glue to seal the seam if necessary, and let the glue cool. Again, be careful with the glue gun, because this type of foam melts easily. Work from the blade end of the shaft down towards the pommel in this manner. Once this is done, glue the pommel into place, and you have a weapon! Well... almost.

UPON FURTHER REVIEW:

So, after standing back and looking at my product, I thought to myself."Hmmm.that handle looks pretty boring to me." So I cut out some thin strips of foam and lightly glued them down in a crisscrossing pattern along the shaft of the weapon. I also added small strips at the top of the blade around the shaft housing, just for dimension. If you decide to do this with your own weapon, consider this first: the more complex you make your weapon, in terms of layers of foam and dimension, the more difficult it will be to coat the finished product with smooth layers of latex. In deciding to add another dimension to the handle with the lacing, I made my job more difficult, because when you coat a plain handle you can use broad strokes. With the lacing, I had to use a smaller brush with smaller, more precise strokes. Also, anywhere you have a corner or an edge where two different pieces of foam meet, you have to give particular attention to that corner to make sure the latex spans the gap.

AN ALTERNATIVE TO LATEX HANDLES:

Perhaps you don't want to latex your handle. A weapon fully coated in latex needs special care, and has to be stored delicately. Using pipe insulation is a must, but there are alternatives to latex. Most "boffer" type weapons are covered in duct tape. However, sometimes the duct tape is wrapped too tightly, or simply wrapped too many times around the handle, and the weapon can become harder and heavier than we would prefer to use for our performances. Some people make fabric "sleeves" for their handles, which not only feels better to hold, but adds color. I have found a type of stretchable faux leather fabric that makes a perfect covering for my handles. I selected a brown color to simulate wood, and some black fabric paint could add wood grain or dirt texture to the fabric. All you need do is measure the outside diameter of your handle, and use that measurement (minus the average "stretching capacity" of your fabric) to make a nice, form fitting "sock" for your handle. The only disadvantage to this method is that you lose any fancy pommel you may have had in mind.

Be creative. Feel free to use other more colorful fabrics for the handle wrapping, then use other smaller strips to make some decorative braiding at the grip. Have fun, but make sure that your weapon stays SOFT and PLIABLE.

Well, there you have it. You have just assembled your weapon. All that is left to do is give it a proper coating of latex.

And the fun is all over.

COATING YOUR WEAPON WITH LATEX:

Now that you have created this wonderful work of art, its time to coat it with liquid latex. I'm not talking about paint. I'm talking about raw ammonia latex. Latex serves two functions: giving the weapon a rubber shell for durability, and also giving the weapon a paintable surface. It looks like paint, but with a thicker consistency. You can find this kind of latex in small quantities at your local art store. The usual size is about a liter, and costs anywhere from $16 to $18. Never pay more than $18 for a container that size. (NOTE: Ammonia latex is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT from makeup latex and body paint latex. The latex you buy for crafts/prop making is not suitable for application on human skin). It is possible to buy liquid latex in large quantities, such as a five gallon bucket, but these you can only get from chemical supply companies, and most of these won't sell to individuals, but rather to businesses. It has been my experience that chemical companies will ask a LOT of questions if you are not one of their regular buyers.and with good reason. Unless you are going to mass-produce weapons, you have no need of such quantities, and be warned that latex will eventually go bad. Still, for a project of this size, you will need between 1 and 1 ½ of the liter sized bottles (perhaps less if you are not coating your handle).

COATING WITH LATEX:

Alright. So you are ready to put on the first coat of latex. If you are only applying latex to the blade of the weapon, all you need do is apply the first coat, and then set the weapon down in such a way that the wet part isn't in contact with anything, just as you would if you were painting it.

However, if you choose to coat your entire weapon with latex, you need to figure out which parts to coat first. In this case, I chose to cover the head and pommel with latex first. This allowed me to hold the handle of the weapon while I brushed on the latex. It also allowed me to balance the weapon on its shaft while the latex was drying. I would rest the shaft on a table or cardboard box.

The first layer of latex will be the hardest, because the foam is porous. Thus, it will also be the heaviest coat. Apply the latex generously on this first coat, allowing the foam to become slightly saturated. Just make sure to smooth out the surface using clean precise strokes. DO NOT allow the latex to "pool" in corners, or it will dry this way, and each addition coat will only add to the problem. Each coat should be smooth and uniform. If you think you are applying your layers too thin, you're probably doing it right! The latex when wet will appear white in color. Once it has fully cured, expect it to appear slightly yellow, especially the later coats. Usually, you are told that latex takes 24 hours or so to cure. However, when you are applying multiple coatings, you can fudge this a little bit. If you need to hurry, you can apply a second coat within a couple hours. The second coat will go on faster, as you are closing up more pores each time you coat. Basically, the first two coats are the only ones in contact with the foam. The third, fourth and fifth coats are merely adding to the thickness of the rubber coating. I find, on average, that most of my weapons take five coats of latex (before painting). This does very however, depending on how heavy your coats are. After your fifth coat, make sure your weapon is completely dry and give it a few test squeezes. Be gentle at first. Test the limits. Then decide if you want to add more coats.

CHEESECLOTH:

If you are worried about strength, because you think a particular edge or other part of your weapon will take a lot of abuse, you should consider adding a layer of cheesecloth between the first and second coat of latex. Some of the more popular LARP weapon makers use Kevlar. Cheesecloth is a really cheap route for strengthening your edges, and is frankly more than adequate for use in our show, since fighting is done in slow motion. Adding layers of cheesecloth is much like doing paper mache. Only use strips small enough to work with, and try not to bunch the cloth. Otherwise it forms clumps which will be visible under the latex. Though you should work with smaller pieces (to avoid having a huge mess on your hands) if you decide to cover a large area of the weapon (such as the face of the blade, rather than the edges) you should use a piece that covers the whole area to be protected. This way there are no "seams".

TEXTURE:

The cheesecloth will leave a "mesh" like texture. This will disappear for the most part with more coatings of latex, but it will never be completely smooth. This is something to think about from the very beginning. Think about the areas of your weapon that will be the most sightly. For instance, with the axe, the most crucial part (from a visual standpoint) is the face of the blade. It will be visible to the audience, and since you will probably want to paint it some metallic color, it's features will be further visible under lighting. (If you end up with a lot of flaws, just paint it black.black is a forgiving color) However, the edges of the blade can be a little scarred. After all, all weapons get chips, and bruises. Consider giving your weapon a "weathered" look. Perhaps you might want to give the edges a few "intentional" dings. Maybe the "wooden" handle is splitting slightly? Just remember that any area you want to look "flawless" probably should not be covered with cheesecloth, and you should take great care in carving, and coating such areas. Latex and paint will only conceal so much.

PAINT:

So your weapon is coated and strong. Now you have to paint it. Simply painting with a latex based paint really isn't good enough. Paint coated over latex will hold in most cases, but under the abuse that most LARP weapons take the paint will chip and peel. I find there is a better way to go. Try buying special tubes of paint tinting which can be mixed directly into the liquid latex. You can get small tubes of various colors of tint at the hardware store for a couple bucks a tube. These little tubes can go a long way. This is the best way to achieve the exact color you want. With the axe, I bought several tubes of gray tint and mixed it with the latex, and I got the color you see in the photos. Give your surface a couple of strokes of "dry-brushing" with a contrasting color, and it will help to give dimension to the look of the weapon.

There you have it! Enjoy your new weapon! But make sure that you saved all the little scraps that are left over. Believe me, you never know what you will be able to use again on another project.

SOME ADDITIONAL PROJECTS

Here are some additional weapons and props that I have made in a similar fashion. Take pictures when you make your own weapons, and we'll try to post them here!

This helmet was made with scrap foam and a fake leather fabric. Hot glue, latex, and a little stitching.

This mace was made with a round foam sponge ball and makeup wedges cut into spikes. The detail on the handle was made with a foam material called "backer rod" which is used to seal drafty gaps in windows and other places. It can be bought at the hardware store, and is very inexpensive.

These weapons are in various stages of construction, but give you more ideas of what you can do. The white foam on the axes is thin ¼ inch foam that I wrapped around the handle, and secured to the blade. The object was simply to give the weapon more dimension.a different "look".